A Gentleman's Guide to Dressing Well

Bob Mitchell

M any men say they don't care about fashion, but dressing well isn't
just vanity -- how we look affects how we're perceived and how we feel
about ourselves. To make a great impression...

Opt for a trim look. The fit of a garment can be even more important
than its quality. Suits and shirts feel most comfortable when they're
cut a bit loose, but the extra fabric can make you look overweight or
rumpled. You'll look best if your suits and shirts are cut trim (but
not tight), even if you're carrying extra pounds. Also...

Narrow-bodied men should ask their tailors to take in the sides of
their shirts. Cost: About $20 per shirt.

Short-armed men should have a tailor shorten the shirt's arms -- the
cuff bottom should come to the end of the wrist. Cost: About $20 per
shirt.

Helpful: You also can order custom-made shirts starting at about $50.

Match your shirt collar to your neck. Men with long necks look best in
dress shirts with high collars... men with wide necks look best in
wide collars... and men with short necks look best with short, narrow
collars.

Favor long sleeves over short. Short-sleeved shirts are fine for
lounging by the pool or playing golf on warm days, but choose long
sleeves for most other occasions. If it gets really hot, a long-
sleeved shirt with rolled-up sleeves still looks sharper than short
sleeves.

When selecting a tie, stick with solids and simple stripes. Ties may
be bright but never busy. If you would like to make a bold fashion
statement, go ahead and choose a boldly colored tie, perhaps in
yellow, pink or teal, but don't select a busy tie with a complicated
pattern -- these are distracting and appear undignified.

Buy timeless, not trendy. If you purchase classic-style suits and
sports jackets, you don't have to worry about looking dated or keeping
up with the latest styles.

Navy and gray... solids and very subtle stripes... in medium-weight
wool are always in style.

Two- or three-button jackets are preferable to four or five buttons.

Medium-width lapels are better than noticeably thin or wide ones.

Choose white or light blue solid dress shirts unless you're confident
of your fashion sense.

Skip pleated pants. Flat-front pants are flattering and stylish for
men of all body types.

Match your belt and your shoes. Black belts go with black shoes, brown
with brown. Ideally, your shoes and belt would match your briefcase as
well.

Pick socks that bridge the gap. Your socks should split the color
difference between your shoes and your pants. Example: If you're
wearing dark brown shoes and tan pants, select medium-brown socks that
fall roughly midway between those shades. Socks should either be solid
in color or have only a subtle pattern.

Dress with class even when you don't need to dress up. Many men are at
a loss for how to look good when they're not in a suit. If you want to
look sharp even when casual...

Wear wool pants instead of cotton. Cotton pants wrinkle easily.
They're fine for the golf course but not for most outings. Midweight
wool pants with a pressed crease are always appropriate and can be
worn most of the year... lightweight wool pants can be worn in summer.
Choose conservative colors -- black, gray, navy or olive. Favor a
classic loafer over boat shoes or sneakers.

Bold-colored shirts are acceptable when you're not wearing a tie, but
avoid busy, distracting patterns. Solids and subtle stripes or checks
are best.

Skip the ski jacket unless you're skiing. Ski jackets are particularly
inappropriate when you're wearing a suit or sport jacket. Wear a three-
quarter- or full-length coat instead.


Bottom Line/Personal interviewed Bob Mitchell, co-president of high-
end clothiers Mitchells of Westport, Connecticut... Richards of
Greenwich, Connecticut... and Marshs of Huntington, New York.
Mitchells was started by his parents in 1958. www.mitchellsonline.com

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